Got to start somewhere

In a bid to make my interminable ramblings more accessible to the world at large, one of my friends has set up this blog for me.

All my treatises (sorry, e-mails) since I flew out to China in October are now here on this blog - see the blog archive on the right hand side.

love and kisses,

Siri
xxx

Bangkok

Dear All,

Fairly quick update this time. It's only been 3 days since I sent the last one, but I broke my trip in Bangkok on the way to India, so thought I would fill you in about my experiences here.


Had an early start on our last day in Cambodia, and boarded a small propeller plane to Bangkok, where Amanda and I split off to spend a few days, while the others headed on to a connecting flight to Heathrow. It was sad to say goodbye, especially after spending 3 weeks in such close quarters. So rare to be able to spend that kind of time with close friends, and so the last 3 weeks will be a treasured memory just for that reason.


Having said that, didn't have long to stay sad though! We decided to play it by ear on our arrival in Bangkok and find a place to stay at random. Took a public taxi to (trustworthy and metered) to the famous (or infamous depending who you talk to) Khaosan Road, the centre of life in Bangkok for most western tourists. Around 12pm by now. Khaosan Rd proved to be crowded, packed with shops, guesthouses, internet cafes, bars, restaurants and some kind of time-space violation (the only way I can find to explain how so much is packed into so little space!). We hoisted our bags and walked into the first place we saw, the Siam Oriental Inn. Luck being on our side, found 2 a/c rooms immediately for about $15/night. Small, clean and a/c works, so happy. Dumped our stuff, had a cursory look at the guidebook and decided to go for a wander.
On the street corner, we were spotted by a passing Thai (turned out to be a football coach) who took pity on us and with great animation told us all about the day being a special holiday, in honour of the King's birthday in 2 days and to celebrate his 60th year on the throne (one of the longest reigning monarchs in history). He obligingly circled several temples and even hailed a special tuk-tuk, which for the day only was $0.5 for 3 hrs! A govt. promotion apparently, and all the temples were free today, in addition to being the only day we were allowed to take photos inside temples. Slightly overwhelmed by this sudden surge of kindness, we sped away in our tuk-tuk, going in excess of 40kph (in contrast to Cambodias rather anemic vehicles which ambled along at running pace). Saw a 45m tall golden Standing Buddha, where I released some birds from a cage after the Buddhist custom (any help I can get is my policy!) and visited several beautiful temples. Met another friendly Thai man, waiting for his wife to finish shopping who took us in hand at another temple and showed us around and gave us advice about more stuff to see, shoping, etc. Really impressed by the genuine friendliness and humour of the Thai people so far, though Amanda rather taken aback by all this bonhomie (though enjoying this completely spontaeous day immensely). Saw sunset at the top of the Golden Mount, with great views over Bangkok, and the went to the most luxurious cinema I've ever had the privilege of visiting. Private lounge, free drinks and in the cinema itself about 20 incredibly comfortable huge leather recliner chairs. We spent the evening lying almost horizontal under blankets and a pillow watching Casino Royale, the new James Bond film (quite good I thought). All in all, an amazing and completely random introduction to Bangkok.


The next day, the 4th December, we went on an all day tour of the floating market and Rose Garden. About 120km away from the city, this place was still authentic and used by locals, though increasing numbers of tourists will probably spoil this. Really narrow waterways with small boats peddling everything from souvenirs to fruit to food cooked on the spot. They'd pull in the boat we were on with a hook if we showed the slightest interest, but no-one was especially pushy and everyone seemed to display a sense of humour. Really cool experience and to describe it properly would take far too long so shall save it for the journal. From the market we went to the Rose Garden, about an hour away, whcih had a cool elephant show as well as a Thai cultural show which was really well done. Elephants walked over people, danced, and other pretty cool tricks. Baby elephant especially cute. We watched the show twice. The cultural bit had exhibitions of Thai boxing, stick fighting, sword fighting, scenes from everyday village life and some great dancing. Footwork had to be seen to be believed, as they danced through some clashing bamboo sticks at ever increasing speed.
That evening spent relaxing in internet cafe and hotel, catching up on some serious sleep deprivation and geting ready to celebrate the Kings birthday tomorrow - big processions, fireworks and other cool stuff. Thai people really love their king, who has been instrumental in developing lots of rural projects aimed directly at improving the life of the poor (and succeeding as well, which is even rarer). So should be a good show.


Thankfully, a nice relaxed start to the morning, with us setting off at 9.30am to explore the river and Wat Arun, a temple on the other side. Managed to negotiate our way through various back streets to the pier near Khaosan Road and took the river taxi. Interesting getting on, as it kept pulling away from the pier! Pretty hot today. Wat Arun was a pretty big complex and plenty of beautiful temples. The main stupa covered in ornamental china, creating a colourful and intricate effect. The top was closed though so had to content ourselves with walking around 1st level. Monks having lunch when we arrived and noticed no shortage of food being heaped on the table. Lot of people watching them eat, for some reason.


From Wat Arun we took a long tailed boat around the old khlongs (old canal districts). Had whole thing to ourselvs and for the next hour cruised around in style, around narrow waterways. Hrd to believe we were in Bangkok still, felt more like a small town on the Mekong Delta, or Tonle Sap lake. Pretty cool.


On arrival back at the pier, found the area around the royal palace packed with yellow clad Thais(in honour of the king whose flag is yellow) gathering for the main celebrations this evening. Wandered through the crowds for a while and teh got a tuk-tuk, only to get off again after 20m when the driver quoted some extortionate rate to take us 200m! Amanda looking rather wistful as the tuk-tuk pulled away. Managed top walk back without getting lost too badly, had lunch at our inn (24 hr restaurant) before I took an afternoon nap. Really missed having those this past year! Felt refreshed around 6pm, in time to watch the big procession.


We wandered to the main road and encountered an amazing crush of people, forming a sea of yellow as far as we could see. Walked along trying to find a place to stand, but every time we thought we'd found a good vantage point, the police moved us on. After about 30 mins ended up where we'd started, so gave up and peered over shoulders st the road. Everyone had a candle to hand, and we were kindly given one each as well, to raise when the king passed. Everyone waiting witha great deal of chatter and festive air. Around 7pm, everyone lit their candles (rather nervous being surrounded by hundreds of naked flames, with everyone crowding closer and closer!) and a rumbling shout showed us the king was coming closer. Passed by in a Mercedes, not a carriage like we'd been hoping. Everyone around us shouting to him, and waving their candles. Quite an experience, with the candlelight strecthing like an intense ribbon of light up and down the road.


About an hour later, the fireworks started, and we had a great view from where we were. A spectacular display, with multiple well timed bursts and bangs loud enough to make the bones feel shaky. Whole road filled with people all gasping and aahing at the almost continuous bursts of light. Amazing to be here to experience this, and all thanks to Amanda, as I'd not really thought about coming to Bangkok.


By now 8pm, and my flight leaving at 3am to India. Spent the rest of the evening emailing, writing, and sorting out photos, all in the hectic ambience of Khaosan Road.


A fantastic and wholly unexpected visit to Bangkok and a great introduction to the friendliness and kindness of Thai people. Definitely looking forward to coming back sometime and exploring the country properly.


Left on a 3am flight. Sad to say bye to Amanda. Rare to find such an agreeable traveling companion and we had a lot of fun these few days.

Now in Delhi, about to visit old friends and family, and get used to being back in India after over 2 yrs away.

Hope you're all well, and looking forward to hearing news from you all.


Siri.

Indochina Tour 4

Dear All,

Coming to the end of our tour now, speeding through all the fantastic wonders of SouthEast Asia. Our last few days were spent in Cambodia, exploring the majesty and mystery of the Angkor temples and complexes. If I remember right, left the last update on the eve of our journey to Cambodia.


Uneventful flight to Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia. Our taciturn guide, Mr Duc, left us abruptly at the airport entrance, without saying goodbye. Got the feeling he considered the job to be below him! Arrival in Phnom Penh was nive, as I'd been there already and felt good to return to something familiar. Our local guide here was a Mr Bun (no idea why all the people we meet have these rather descriptive western names!), a nice though reserved man. Straight into a city tour of Phnom Penh after lunch at the FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) with its excellent location ocverlooking the Tonle Sap river. Girls all impressed with the place and, on catching sight of the dessert menu, clamoured to eat there again in the evening. Predictable I suppose.


The Royal Palace was pretty cool. Large compound with lots of palaces, temples and monuments scattered around. Still in use by the king as his main residence, though he was away when we arrived. Interesting man - elected against his wishes as the only honest royal out of the old kings brood, he'd been quite content as a ballet teacher in France until then. You can imagine what most people think of a 54 year old ballet dancer who's never been married. Seems to be doing a conscientious job though as far as he's allowed by the rather dictatorial Prime Minister and his cabinet.


Throne hall long and golden, with intricate scenes from the Ramayana (one of the core Hindu epics) on the ceiling. Roofs had typical wavy flame like protrusions, glinting golden in the sun. The Silver Pagoda was even more richly appointed. Derives its name form a floor made of silver tiles (over 5000kg weight in total) and a lifesize Buddha statue made from 45kfg of gold and encrusted with over 2000 diamonds (some over 20 carats). All in all, a fabulous display of wealth, and with no hint of security apart from a couple of elderly door guards. Our guide proved most informative about the displays and where they came from, though had a tendency to rabbit on. He also went through the comlicated recent history of Cambodia, from the French rule, American interference and bombing, the rise of the Khmer Rouge and their atrocities under Pol Pot, to their eventual fall from grace and the resumption of power by the current govt. increasingly corrupt as it is. The people have better lives now than they've had for the past 30 years, not that this is saying much.


From the Royal Palace, went to Wat Phnom, the main religious site in Phnom Penh and built on the small hill that gives the capital its name. Plenty of monkeys ambling around. That eveing relaxed in the hotel. Horsed around in the pool with some of the girls. Had to fight off being dunked by 4 of them at the same time which proved amusing.


The next day, an early start by 5.30am to catch our flight to Siem Reap, the closest town to Angkor Wat. The emptiest flight I've ever been on. A capacity of 150 passengers and only 15 people on board! Some cool aerial views of the Tonle Sap lake on arrival. Checked into our home for the next 4 nights, the Lotus Angkor. Fairly up market, nice garden and pool. Asked our guide, a short dark Cambodian with Indian features, if we could switch around the itinerary so as to see the siteswhen the tourist crowds were the thinnest.He obligingly shifted things around and so our first stop was Angkor Wat itself.


The place deserves its reputation. The entrance gate is itself impressive and then once through and able to see the full majesty of the main temple complex is a memory never to be forgotten. We were lucky enough to arrive there after virtually all the tour groups had left, and attimes it felt as if we had the place to ourselves. The intricate and seemngly endless bas reliefs, the beautifully defines carvings and the symmetry of the whole edifice was simply stunning. The inner sanctuary was up some of the steepest steps I've ever seen, seriously, more like a cliff face than anything else. Looking down after the climb a particularly vertiginous experience! Spent an absorbing couple of hours there before breaking for lunch (before some of the girls staged a mutiny due to hunger pangs!) in a nearby open walled khmer restaurant.


The next stop was the famous and huge complex of Angkor Thom, a city built largely by one of the ancient kings - Jayavarman VII. A man with a serious ego, he built over 300 temples during his reign, often pulling workers off the fields to do so and causing the economy of the empire to go into a decline. It is said that the 2000 large faces carved into the Bayon, the largest temple there, were based on his face, though honoring Buddha. Most of the temples in Angkor builyt to Hindu gods, but sometimes with Buddhist undertones, according to the kings religious leaning. The Bayon was incredible as well (running out of superlatives here). 54 towers (to watch over the 54 provinces of the empire), each with huge faces carved on all four sides coldly smiling down on us and intricate carvings of apsaras (heavenly dancers and concubines), gods, demons and scenes of everyday life (my favourite was a turtle biting a mans bum, I assume in protest at being taken to the cooking pot). From the Bayon, we wandered along to the Elephant Terrace, the Leper Terrace, both with interesting history and carvings (including Yama from Hindu mythology) before heading back to the hotel around 6pm. That evening went to a traditional Khmer dance performance with buffet dinner. Interesting artform though done slightly amateurishly the place we went.


The next day, 29th November, a long one. The morning was spent visiting temples near Angkor Thom - Banteay Srei, Ta Prohm and Preah Khan. Large complexes, and some of them with jungle a stones throw awaysurrounding them. Went exploring by myself for a few minutes and suppeptitiously climed an outer wall and sat there with no one around, surrounded by the sounds of the jungle. Fantastic feel to be alone in the ruins like that. Ta Prohm was the temple where scenes from Tomb Raider, with Angelina Jolie were filmed. 5 yrs ago completely surrounded in jungle, with tree roots growng all over it. Now, much of the jungle cleared back, though everywhere in the complex we came across huge trees with root systems like massive pale snaked burrowing and winding their way over and through the masonry. Really cool to see, though a bit spoilt by the hordes of tourists (the majority of whom seem to be Japanese and Koreans for some reason). In Banteay Kdei, fell in with a friendly monk and chatted with him for a while, and his novices gathered around us in a cloud of saffron robes. Later came across them at Ta Prohm and I think other tourists mystified as to why I was being greeted by a long line of monks.


The afternoon was spent visiting the Roulos group of temples - Lolei, Preah Ko and Preah Bakong. These were some of the earliest temples built by the Angkorians, dating between 800-900AD. Dedicated to Hindu gods as well as ancestor worship. Fairly brief visits to each as we had little time before sunset. Lolei and Preah Ko both brick built and now crumbling, though still impressive. Many less carvings and statues here. The last one, Bakong, was the first temple to be built of sandstone (the model for Angkor Wat and other temples later taken from this) and looked very impressive - a square tapering tower of sandstone, aged black in many areas, with flanking smaller towers. Great views of the countryside and a good place to see the sunset. Had 3 levels, with an elephant standing watch at each corner (their trunks had fallen off, giving them a rather forlorn look). Taz subjected to the strangest form of begging I've encountered so far. Given a flower by a random child and then asked for her half empty bottle of water (though plenty of water around). Taken aback by this unusual request, she passed over her bottle without demur.


Around 4.30pm that day left Bakong and drove to the mountain temple of Phnom Bakheng. While the temple itself not very well preserved, the views from this 150m high vantage point were the main attraction. In particular, sunset there supposed to be amazing. Quite a few tourists there, drawn by the same lure. And indeed, we were treated to a pretty spectacular sunset, glowing clouds of red, orange and pink, with colours reflected in the Tonle Sap lake far below us. Took for too many photos, but otherwise relaxed and enjoyed the view. Surely a rare experience, sitting on stone parapets built by the god-kings of Angkor and centuries after their demise sitting enjoying what must have been a priviliged view. That evening had dinner at a local hole-in-the-wall place, called Amok (named after Cambodias national dish), before all hitting the sack early. Could hardly keep my eyes open past 10pm.


The next day provided one of the most memorable experiences for me. Though not part of our original itinerary, we'd negotiated to go to an outlying temple, Beng Melea, over 70km awa from Siem Reap. I'd suggested it as it was one of the few temples still cocooned in jungle, exactly as it had been for the past 400 years. The authorities were starting to slowly clear the jungle away now, after the area had been mostly cleared of landmines in 2002. So off at 8pm into the Cambodian countryside. Passed fairly typical huts, made of thatch and wood and on stilts. Small one room affairs for the most part.Plenty of cows, buffalo and chickens around, and field after field of lush green rice crops. Surprisingly empty of people on the whole, compared to Vietnam or Laos, until we remembered the terrible toll on life the recent civil war and Khmer Rouge regime had taken.


We arrived at Beng Mealea around 10am. The next 2 hours were spent clambering through an amazing ancient temple, choked with jungle. Mounds of rubble, both due to jungle and to mans destruction, everywhere but for all that vert well preserved, with intact carvings, statues. Here, unfetterd by closely watching authorities, we were able to walk on the top of walls, perch on blocks of sandstone with 50ft falls around us, navigate precariously perched rocks to new vantage points. Felt so much more like exploring than the other more touristy places, and there were about 10 other people there apart from us. Went exploring away from the group, discovered cool views, balancing on half collaped wall and roofs. Sat in loops of creepers and swung gently, very comfortable seating as well. Probably my favoutite experience here in Siem Reap, just overshadowing Angkor Wat itself.


The rest of the day spent bouncing along potholed dusty red dirt tracks, visiting other far away temples. The most impressive was called Banteay Srei - quite a small complex but covered with the most intricate, detailed and beautiful carvings yet found in the Angkorian ruins. Must have been amazingly talented sculptors, and often a whole story apparent just from a single carving. Helped that I was familiar with al these legends, having grown up reading Hindu mythology. Added an extra dimension to my appreciation. Sunset that day was from the temple of Pre Rup, another mountain temple (again with almost vertical steps, not wide enough for a childs foot!). Again, beautiful colours and a great experience. That night, we all decided to have a dress up dinner. I wore my black silk Vietnamese outfit, and girls all looking colouful and lovely in bright exotic tops and dresses. Taz deserves a special mention, looking a vision in shimmering green and blue silk outfit, tailored for her in Vietnam. Some Japanese guy in the hotel asked where we were from and on being told England, had a frankly disbelieving look on his face. Kept giving us odd stares until we left for the restaurant (a rather nice place with excellent food called Viroth). I think we may have overturned his views on English people.


That brings us to today, the 2nd December. The last day of this tour, and hard to belive that time had gone so quickly (though possibly not for those of you consigned to reading these interminable emails!). Up and out of the hotel before 5am today, in an effort to catch sunrise. Nishat, Taz and Usha had managed to drag themselves (with varying degrees of enthusiasm) out of bed to join me. Took a tuk-tuk there. Almost pitch black when we arrived and navigated our way by the occasional flash of light from other tourists torches. Sat by the left hand lotus pond (lovely pink lotuses in bloom) in front of the temple, and watched the sky slowly lighten into a series of delicate pinks and reds, silhouetting the five towers of Angkor Wat. A memorabloe experience and so worth getting up early for. Didn't even mind the occasional fire ant dropping down from the tree overhead and biting us (though Nishat may have diferent views on this!). Took the opportunity to walk around the rest of the bas reliefs we hadn't seen the first day, before rushing back to the hotel by 8am for out cruise on the Tonle Sap Lake.


This lake is the largest in SouthEast Asia, and reportedly one of the largest freshwater laeks in the worls. It has a unique ecology whichhad kept teams of marine biologists busy for years, with no sign of exhausting their studies (was chatting with a marine biologist in Phnom Penh and treated to a brief expose of the ecology here). Quite a few floating villages on the lake, and during summer when the lake shrinks, they move the whole village to deeper waters. Considering the size and solidness of some of these structures, quite an impressive feat. Plenty of crocodiles in the lake as well. Went for an hours boat ride around, visiting a fish and crocodile farm on the way. Interesting to see how completely people here live on the water (far more so than the Mekong Delta).


Following that, back to dry land and a quick visit to an artisans village before being dropped in town to do our own thing. Said goodbye to our informative and ever obliging guide, Phirom. Everyone split up to do shopping, emailing, etc.


Tomorrow we all fly out. Amanda and I will be stopping in Bangkok for a few days, while the others will be heading back to grey old England, and back to work. My full sympathies go with them.


I hope you're all well and enjoying the run-up to Christmas (or not too frustrated with Christmas shopping and traffic).

Siri.