Dear All,
Fairly quick update this time. It's only been 3 days since I sent the last one, but I broke my trip in Bangkok on the way to India, so thought I would fill you in about my experiences here.
Had an early start on our last day in Cambodia, and boarded a small propeller plane to Bangkok, where Amanda and I split off to spend a few days, while the others headed on to a connecting flight to Heathrow. It was sad to say goodbye, especially after spending 3 weeks in such close quarters. So rare to be able to spend that kind of time with close friends, and so the last 3 weeks will be a treasured memory just for that reason.
Having said that, didn't have long to stay sad though! We decided to play it by ear on our arrival in Bangkok and find a place to stay at random. Took a public taxi to (trustworthy and metered) to the famous (or infamous depending who you talk to) Khaosan Road, the centre of life in Bangkok for most western tourists. Around 12pm by now. Khaosan Rd proved to be crowded, packed with shops, guesthouses, internet cafes, bars, restaurants and some kind of time-space violation (the only way I can find to explain how so much is packed into so little space!). We hoisted our bags and walked into the first place we saw, the Siam Oriental Inn. Luck being on our side, found 2 a/c rooms immediately for about $15/night. Small, clean and a/c works, so happy. Dumped our stuff, had a cursory look at the guidebook and decided to go for a wander.
On the street corner, we were spotted by a passing Thai (turned out to be a football coach) who took pity on us and with great animation told us all about the day being a special holiday, in honour of the King's birthday in 2 days and to celebrate his 60th year on the throne (one of the longest reigning monarchs in history). He obligingly circled several temples and even hailed a special tuk-tuk, which for the day only was $0.5 for 3 hrs! A govt. promotion apparently, and all the temples were free today, in addition to being the only day we were allowed to take photos inside temples. Slightly overwhelmed by this sudden surge of kindness, we sped away in our tuk-tuk, going in excess of 40kph (in contrast to Cambodias rather anemic vehicles which ambled along at running pace). Saw a 45m tall golden Standing Buddha, where I released some birds from a cage after the Buddhist custom (any help I can get is my policy!) and visited several beautiful temples. Met another friendly Thai man, waiting for his wife to finish shopping who took us in hand at another temple and showed us around and gave us advice about more stuff to see, shoping, etc. Really impressed by the genuine friendliness and humour of the Thai people so far, though Amanda rather taken aback by all this bonhomie (though enjoying this completely spontaeous day immensely). Saw sunset at the top of the Golden Mount, with great views over Bangkok, and the went to the most luxurious cinema I've ever had the privilege of visiting. Private lounge, free drinks and in the cinema itself about 20 incredibly comfortable huge leather recliner chairs. We spent the evening lying almost horizontal under blankets and a pillow watching Casino Royale, the new James Bond film (quite good I thought). All in all, an amazing and completely random introduction to Bangkok.
The next day, the 4th December, we went on an all day tour of the floating market and Rose Garden. About 120km away from the city, this place was still authentic and used by locals, though increasing numbers of tourists will probably spoil this. Really narrow waterways with small boats peddling everything from souvenirs to fruit to food cooked on the spot. They'd pull in the boat we were on with a hook if we showed the slightest interest, but no-one was especially pushy and everyone seemed to display a sense of humour. Really cool experience and to describe it properly would take far too long so shall save it for the journal. From the market we went to the Rose Garden, about an hour away, whcih had a cool elephant show as well as a Thai cultural show which was really well done. Elephants walked over people, danced, and other pretty cool tricks. Baby elephant especially cute. We watched the show twice. The cultural bit had exhibitions of Thai boxing, stick fighting, sword fighting, scenes from everyday village life and some great dancing. Footwork had to be seen to be believed, as they danced through some clashing bamboo sticks at ever increasing speed.
That evening spent relaxing in internet cafe and hotel, catching up on some serious sleep deprivation and geting ready to celebrate the Kings birthday tomorrow - big processions, fireworks and other cool stuff. Thai people really love their king, who has been instrumental in developing lots of rural projects aimed directly at improving the life of the poor (and succeeding as well, which is even rarer). So should be a good show.
Thankfully, a nice relaxed start to the morning, with us setting off at 9.30am to explore the river and Wat Arun, a temple on the other side. Managed to negotiate our way through various back streets to the pier near Khaosan Road and took the river taxi. Interesting getting on, as it kept pulling away from the pier! Pretty hot today. Wat Arun was a pretty big complex and plenty of beautiful temples. The main stupa covered in ornamental china, creating a colourful and intricate effect. The top was closed though so had to content ourselves with walking around 1st level. Monks having lunch when we arrived and noticed no shortage of food being heaped on the table. Lot of people watching them eat, for some reason.
From Wat Arun we took a long tailed boat around the old khlongs (old canal districts). Had whole thing to ourselvs and for the next hour cruised around in style, around narrow waterways. Hrd to believe we were in Bangkok still, felt more like a small town on the Mekong Delta, or Tonle Sap lake. Pretty cool.
On arrival back at the pier, found the area around the royal palace packed with yellow clad Thais(in honour of the king whose flag is yellow) gathering for the main celebrations this evening. Wandered through the crowds for a while and teh got a tuk-tuk, only to get off again after 20m when the driver quoted some extortionate rate to take us 200m! Amanda looking rather wistful as the tuk-tuk pulled away. Managed top walk back without getting lost too badly, had lunch at our inn (24 hr restaurant) before I took an afternoon nap. Really missed having those this past year! Felt refreshed around 6pm, in time to watch the big procession.
We wandered to the main road and encountered an amazing crush of people, forming a sea of yellow as far as we could see. Walked along trying to find a place to stand, but every time we thought we'd found a good vantage point, the police moved us on. After about 30 mins ended up where we'd started, so gave up and peered over shoulders st the road. Everyone had a candle to hand, and we were kindly given one each as well, to raise when the king passed. Everyone waiting witha great deal of chatter and festive air. Around 7pm, everyone lit their candles (rather nervous being surrounded by hundreds of naked flames, with everyone crowding closer and closer!) and a rumbling shout showed us the king was coming closer. Passed by in a Mercedes, not a carriage like we'd been hoping. Everyone around us shouting to him, and waving their candles. Quite an experience, with the candlelight strecthing like an intense ribbon of light up and down the road.
About an hour later, the fireworks started, and we had a great view from where we were. A spectacular display, with multiple well timed bursts and bangs loud enough to make the bones feel shaky. Whole road filled with people all gasping and aahing at the almost continuous bursts of light. Amazing to be here to experience this, and all thanks to Amanda, as I'd not really thought about coming to Bangkok.
By now 8pm, and my flight leaving at 3am to India. Spent the rest of the evening emailing, writing, and sorting out photos, all in the hectic ambience of Khaosan Road.
A fantastic and wholly unexpected visit to Bangkok and a great introduction to the friendliness and kindness of Thai people. Definitely looking forward to coming back sometime and exploring the country properly.
Left on a 3am flight. Sad to say bye to Amanda. Rare to find such an agreeable traveling companion and we had a lot of fun these few days.
Now in Delhi, about to visit old friends and family, and get used to being back in India after over 2 yrs away.
Hope you're all well, and looking forward to hearing news from you all.
Siri.
Fairly quick update this time. It's only been 3 days since I sent the last one, but I broke my trip in Bangkok on the way to India, so thought I would fill you in about my experiences here.
Had an early start on our last day in Cambodia, and boarded a small propeller plane to Bangkok, where Amanda and I split off to spend a few days, while the others headed on to a connecting flight to Heathrow. It was sad to say goodbye, especially after spending 3 weeks in such close quarters. So rare to be able to spend that kind of time with close friends, and so the last 3 weeks will be a treasured memory just for that reason.
Having said that, didn't have long to stay sad though! We decided to play it by ear on our arrival in Bangkok and find a place to stay at random. Took a public taxi to (trustworthy and metered) to the famous (or infamous depending who you talk to) Khaosan Road, the centre of life in Bangkok for most western tourists. Around 12pm by now. Khaosan Rd proved to be crowded, packed with shops, guesthouses, internet cafes, bars, restaurants and some kind of time-space violation (the only way I can find to explain how so much is packed into so little space!). We hoisted our bags and walked into the first place we saw, the Siam Oriental Inn. Luck being on our side, found 2 a/c rooms immediately for about $15/night. Small, clean and a/c works, so happy. Dumped our stuff, had a cursory look at the guidebook and decided to go for a wander.
On the street corner, we were spotted by a passing Thai (turned out to be a football coach) who took pity on us and with great animation told us all about the day being a special holiday, in honour of the King's birthday in 2 days and to celebrate his 60th year on the throne (one of the longest reigning monarchs in history). He obligingly circled several temples and even hailed a special tuk-tuk, which for the day only was $0.5 for 3 hrs! A govt. promotion apparently, and all the temples were free today, in addition to being the only day we were allowed to take photos inside temples. Slightly overwhelmed by this sudden surge of kindness, we sped away in our tuk-tuk, going in excess of 40kph (in contrast to Cambodias rather anemic vehicles which ambled along at running pace). Saw a 45m tall golden Standing Buddha, where I released some birds from a cage after the Buddhist custom (any help I can get is my policy!) and visited several beautiful temples. Met another friendly Thai man, waiting for his wife to finish shopping who took us in hand at another temple and showed us around and gave us advice about more stuff to see, shoping, etc. Really impressed by the genuine friendliness and humour of the Thai people so far, though Amanda rather taken aback by all this bonhomie (though enjoying this completely spontaeous day immensely). Saw sunset at the top of the Golden Mount, with great views over Bangkok, and the went to the most luxurious cinema I've ever had the privilege of visiting. Private lounge, free drinks and in the cinema itself about 20 incredibly comfortable huge leather recliner chairs. We spent the evening lying almost horizontal under blankets and a pillow watching Casino Royale, the new James Bond film (quite good I thought). All in all, an amazing and completely random introduction to Bangkok.
The next day, the 4th December, we went on an all day tour of the floating market and Rose Garden. About 120km away from the city, this place was still authentic and used by locals, though increasing numbers of tourists will probably spoil this. Really narrow waterways with small boats peddling everything from souvenirs to fruit to food cooked on the spot. They'd pull in the boat we were on with a hook if we showed the slightest interest, but no-one was especially pushy and everyone seemed to display a sense of humour. Really cool experience and to describe it properly would take far too long so shall save it for the journal. From the market we went to the Rose Garden, about an hour away, whcih had a cool elephant show as well as a Thai cultural show which was really well done. Elephants walked over people, danced, and other pretty cool tricks. Baby elephant especially cute. We watched the show twice. The cultural bit had exhibitions of Thai boxing, stick fighting, sword fighting, scenes from everyday village life and some great dancing. Footwork had to be seen to be believed, as they danced through some clashing bamboo sticks at ever increasing speed.
That evening spent relaxing in internet cafe and hotel, catching up on some serious sleep deprivation and geting ready to celebrate the Kings birthday tomorrow - big processions, fireworks and other cool stuff. Thai people really love their king, who has been instrumental in developing lots of rural projects aimed directly at improving the life of the poor (and succeeding as well, which is even rarer). So should be a good show.
Thankfully, a nice relaxed start to the morning, with us setting off at 9.30am to explore the river and Wat Arun, a temple on the other side. Managed to negotiate our way through various back streets to the pier near Khaosan Road and took the river taxi. Interesting getting on, as it kept pulling away from the pier! Pretty hot today. Wat Arun was a pretty big complex and plenty of beautiful temples. The main stupa covered in ornamental china, creating a colourful and intricate effect. The top was closed though so had to content ourselves with walking around 1st level. Monks having lunch when we arrived and noticed no shortage of food being heaped on the table. Lot of people watching them eat, for some reason.
From Wat Arun we took a long tailed boat around the old khlongs (old canal districts). Had whole thing to ourselvs and for the next hour cruised around in style, around narrow waterways. Hrd to believe we were in Bangkok still, felt more like a small town on the Mekong Delta, or Tonle Sap lake. Pretty cool.
On arrival back at the pier, found the area around the royal palace packed with yellow clad Thais(in honour of the king whose flag is yellow) gathering for the main celebrations this evening. Wandered through the crowds for a while and teh got a tuk-tuk, only to get off again after 20m when the driver quoted some extortionate rate to take us 200m! Amanda looking rather wistful as the tuk-tuk pulled away. Managed top walk back without getting lost too badly, had lunch at our inn (24 hr restaurant) before I took an afternoon nap. Really missed having those this past year! Felt refreshed around 6pm, in time to watch the big procession.
We wandered to the main road and encountered an amazing crush of people, forming a sea of yellow as far as we could see. Walked along trying to find a place to stand, but every time we thought we'd found a good vantage point, the police moved us on. After about 30 mins ended up where we'd started, so gave up and peered over shoulders st the road. Everyone had a candle to hand, and we were kindly given one each as well, to raise when the king passed. Everyone waiting witha great deal of chatter and festive air. Around 7pm, everyone lit their candles (rather nervous being surrounded by hundreds of naked flames, with everyone crowding closer and closer!) and a rumbling shout showed us the king was coming closer. Passed by in a Mercedes, not a carriage like we'd been hoping. Everyone around us shouting to him, and waving their candles. Quite an experience, with the candlelight strecthing like an intense ribbon of light up and down the road.
About an hour later, the fireworks started, and we had a great view from where we were. A spectacular display, with multiple well timed bursts and bangs loud enough to make the bones feel shaky. Whole road filled with people all gasping and aahing at the almost continuous bursts of light. Amazing to be here to experience this, and all thanks to Amanda, as I'd not really thought about coming to Bangkok.
By now 8pm, and my flight leaving at 3am to India. Spent the rest of the evening emailing, writing, and sorting out photos, all in the hectic ambience of Khaosan Road.
A fantastic and wholly unexpected visit to Bangkok and a great introduction to the friendliness and kindness of Thai people. Definitely looking forward to coming back sometime and exploring the country properly.
Left on a 3am flight. Sad to say bye to Amanda. Rare to find such an agreeable traveling companion and we had a lot of fun these few days.
Now in Delhi, about to visit old friends and family, and get used to being back in India after over 2 yrs away.
Hope you're all well, and looking forward to hearing news from you all.
Siri.
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